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Lucky 32 has stood the test of time

Watching the construction of the new Proximity Hotel reminded me that I had not written about Lucky 32 in quite some time. This was the first restaurant, established in 1989, from Dennis Quaintance and partner Mike Weaver.

I learned that a new chef had been installed earlier this year. Jay Pierce formerly worked for Emeril Lagasse's organization, cooking at NOLA in New Orleans and Emeril's in Orlando, Fla., after completing culinary school in Oregon. He "backed into" the culinary arts following a degree in English from Louisiana State University.

I have always admired the conception and management of Lucky 32, and sometimes I have admired the food. Eighteen years is a long time in the restaurant business, and during that period, from time to time, I have had meals here in which everything was good but not that good — in other words, often not up to the three-star level. With Chef Pierce at the helm, however, the restaurant has regained that status.

Classic jazz plays in the background. Overhead lights cast a rose hue over contemporary décor. You are greeted by a hostess immediately upon entry, and service personnel make their initial visit promptly.

My wife and I found the wine list very inviting. Myriad by-the-glass selections are available in 3-, 6- and 9-ounce portions, well chosen and reasonably priced. One server, however, exhibited little experience and knowledge of wine service, not realizing that a list such as this causes people like me to order a different wine with each course, so a portion of each course went "unwined."

Two types of bread — crusty multigrain and sesame seed-crusted unbleached flour — earned praise.

The menu combines set offerings with seasonal adjustments. My review visits covered a set of fall seasonal specials, followed by selections from "The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook."

The Triad is finally experiencing soup weather, so my wife and I started one meal with Butternut Squash Soup ($3.50/cup). Creamy richness melded with the squash flavor upfront, a hint of nutmeg in the background.

Bayou Shrimp Cakes ($8) — constructed with cracker crumbs, lightly crusted, with a mustardy accent undergirding natural shrimp flavor — had been enhanced with a spicy "voodoo" glaze (a New Orleans sauce combining tomato paste, Texas Pete and sugar) and pickled mirliton (Caribbean squash) chowchow. These provide knockout flavor. Two Black Bean Cakes ($8) bore a pleasant, crisp exterior, while the interior produced Southwestern-style flavors, accented with a tomato and corn relish.

Some entrees come with a salad, based on Romaine lettuce, leaf spinach, red cabbage, radishes, julienned carrot and sunflower seeds, served on chilled plates. The creamy balsamic dressing is unusual and quite flavorful. I liked the warm bacon vinaigrette, too. Other entrees carry a $3 salad charge. Servers were not always able to identify which entrees did or did not include a salad.

Meatloaf ($15) exhibited light, yet complex flavors, a function of blended ground pork and beef — pate style — wrapped in bacon, which imparted a smoky flavor of its own. Creamy mashed potatoes and Southern-style gravy, plus collard greens, accompanied this Southern classic.

In Lemon-Chicken Pasta ($13), the sliced chicken breast meat struck me as a bit tough, although the flavor, along with roasted tomatoes, was enjoyable. Pesto sauce infused bowtie pasta. Cornmeal Crusted Carolina Catfish ($18) bore an appropriately crisp exterior, and the interior remained puffy-steamy tender. This came with Creole mayonnaise and creamy grits.

A serving of three Pan Fried Crab Cakes ($19) tasted as if backfin were the primary ingredient. Slaw of coarse-cut red and green cabbage plus a little carrot needed more dressing. Tartar sauce added a Southern accent. I would have been happier if the kitchen had showed a little more imagination, but tartar sauce may appeal to others. Lucky's fries, the other vegetable, looked and tasted like fresh-cut potatoes. Kudos to the kitchen on this item.

From the fall seasonal menu, Persimmon Glazed Char ($20), a pink-fleshed fish kin to salmon, benefitted from the sweetish coating, plated with green beans and whipped sweet potatoes, creating a solid conception. This represented an especially good value because a salad was included in addition to the two vegetables.

From the "Southern Cook-book," Fish Stew Man's Red Catfish Stew ($17) combined applewood smoked bacon, potatoes, tomatoes, sweet corn and a little cream in a tomato broth over rice. This came with a salad. Seared Boneless Pork Loin Chop ($19) featured two slices, each about 5 to 6 inches wide by about ¼-inch thick. Although I trimmed away a good bit of fat and gristle, the remaining lean meat provided an ample portion, with enough leftovers for another meal. This was ladled with pear and sweet onion gravy, and served with Hoppin' John and fresh collards, nicely trimmed.

I came away from these visits well-pleased. Lucky 32 has established a solid following through the years, a function of familiarity, accessibility, convenience and value. I would argue that there is a lot more than luck that accounts for the success of this fixture in the Triad restaurant scene.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to jbatchelor@excite.com.

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