When you’re craving dirt candy, you can’t beet ketchup

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 39. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

Unfortunately this summer’s finicky weather has poorly affected many of the beets in the area, and the crops at Farlow Farm and Schicker’s Acre did not germinate. This has presented a challenge for us trying to source locally, so as a result we’ve turned to larger concerns, farther away, such as Burch Farms, in Faison, NC.

Besides our affection for beets, we also love beet greens, so at the restaurant, we decided to make a roasted beet salad with some classic accompaniments, like romaine lettuce, toasted walnuts, apples, crumbled bleu cheese and a tarragon vinaigrette. The first time we put that salad on the menu, we were deliberating about what kind of meat to include in the salad. We feel like beets are the venison of the vegetable world, they’re meaty and filling and can hold their own in a salad like that. Sure enough, the salad was an overwhelming success, so we bring it back twice a year, both in the spring and the fall, when we can get beets locally.

Recipe: Roasted Beet Salad

  • 4 oz spring mix lettuce
  • ½ pound roasted beets, sliced (see below)
  • ¼ cup toasted walnuts
  • ¼ cup blue cheese crumbles
  • ½ local apple, sliced, then cut slices cut in half
  • 1 fl oz Tarragon Vinaigrette (see below)

Toss spring mix with vinaigrette and place in serving bowl. Arrange beets around perimeter of bowl rim. Sprinkle walnuts, blue cheese, and apple in the center. Makes 1 serving.

Recipe: Roasted Beets

  • 3 pounds red beets
  • 1/3 cup water
  • kosher salt

Place beets on a sheet tray, add water, and sprinkle with salt. Cover tray with foil and roast in 350 degree oven for 1-1 ½ hours (the skin should slip off). Remove from oven and immerse in cold water. Peel and slice in half lengthwise, and cut into half moons about ¼ inch thick. Yields 1 ½ pounds.

Recipe: Tarragon Vinaigrette

  • 1 cup red wine vinegar
  • 3 tbsp dried tarragon
  • ¼ cup minced shallots
  • 1 tbsp granulated sugar
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 3 cups canola oil

To a saucepan, add all ingredients, except oil. Heat while whisking, until sugar is dissolved and Dijon is incorporated. Pour into blender or food processor and slowly incorporate oil until all is combined. Makes 1 quart.

In addition to making the beet salad, we roast beets as a side dish, pickle them, and most recently, we began making a beet ketchup. The recipe was inspired by the beet ketchup served this summer at the Farm to Fork Picnic, in Hillsborough. We visited Fickle Creek Farm (from whence comes our lard for our Skillet-Fried Chicken), and they were serving chicken corn dogs with this beet ketchup which was something we had never seen before and we were determined to recreate it at the restaurant. It’s just roasted beets, sugar, spices and vinegar. We serve it with grilled pork chops and it tastes like a more adult version of ketchup—it has more complexity to it.

Recipe: Beet Ketchup

  • 1 ½ pounds roasted red beets
  • 1 1/3 cup brown sugar
  • 5 tbsp white vinegar
  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 tbsp kosher salt, or to taste
  • 1 tsp juniper berries
  • 1 tsp whole cloves
  • 1 tsp whole allspice
  • ½ tsp granulated garlic
  • ½ tsp granulated onion

Combine all ingredients in a sauce pot and simmer for one hour or until beets can be puréed in a food mill or food processor. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Process through a food mill or in a food processor (if using a food processor, strain through a fine mesh sieve afterwords). Allow the mixture to sit in the refrigerator overnight. Process mixture in a blender or food processor in small batches. Force the purée through a fine mesh sieve. Makes 1 quart.

Fun Facts on Beets:

  • The three most common types of beets in the marketplace are: red beets, gold beets and chioggia beets (or candy stripe beets).
  • They are a great source of natural sugar and most of Europe’s table sugar is processed from beets.
  • They are rich in folate, potassium, maganese, beta-carotene, iron, and vitamins B and C.
  • They are common in Eastern European cuisine.
  • Beet greens have a mild spinach flavor and can be eaten raw (if they’re small and tender), de-stemmed and mixed with other salad greens, or they can be cooked like swiss chard. The best way to cook them is to separate the stem from the leaves and cook the stems first until they’re tender and then add the leaves and cook them until they are lightly wilted.
  • Locally, beets can be grown twice a year, in the spring and in the fall, because they thrive during cool nights.
  • Smaller beets= sweeter; larger beets= earthier.
  • We like to fry sliced beets to mix with sweet potato chips, toasted kale and parsnips, and call it “Autumn Leaves.”
  • Their juice stains easily, so it’s advisable to buy some disposable gloves if you’re planning on working with them, otherwise your kitchen might look like a crime scene!

Ketchup Facts:

  • Ketchup or Catsup? Ketchup is the original term for this beloved American condiment and it’s thought to have either derived from the Malaysian word “ke-tsiap” or “Kecap,” or the Chinese word “kôe-chiap,” for a fermented soy sauce made of pickled fish. Tomatoes did not become the forefront ingredient of ketchup until the late 1700s. Europeans explorers became a fan of the sauce and brought it home with them, referring to it as “catchup,” which later evolved into “ketchup.”
  • One of the earliest English recipes for ketchup contained anchovies, lemon peel, vinegar, white wine, shallots, cloves, mace, ginger, and nutmeg.
  • The word catsup was noted of first appearing in a poem by Jonathan Swift, in 1730: “And, for our home-bred British cheer, Botargo, catsup, and caveer.”
  • Sandy Addison is said to have created the first American documented recipe for ketchup, in the American cookbook, The Sugar House Book, published in 1801.
  • Heinz didn’t actually make a tomato-based ketchup until 1876 and they originally called the condiment catsup, later changing to ketchup sometime during the late 1880s. Today, they are the world’s leading ketchup distributor, selling over 600 million bottles each year.

Feeling Adventurous? Try these fun, unusual recipes for beets:

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

 

Totally tubular! Musings on the sweet potato

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 38. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

Mother Nature has a way of giving us visual clues to what we should be celebrating. Just when the leaves start turning orange, pumpkins begin to festoon everything and those lovely sweet potatoes come into season. As  kids, many of us either ate our sweet potatoes from a can or dug in to grandmother’s sweet potato casserole, replete with marshmallows, pecans, and maraschino cherries. We’ve come to realize, however, that as our sweet teeth have faded a bit, we have come to appreciate sweet potatoes even more.

These root veggies are starchy, so when they’re picked from the ground, they need to be cured in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment to convert their starch to sugar. Afterwards, they’re stored and their sweetness accrues with age. Sweet potato growers know that when sweet potatoes are in season, they’re not at their peak and that it won’t be until a month or so later that they’ll really shine. By the time Thanksgiving rolls around, they are as good as they will ever be. In the meantime, you can still enjoy sweet potatoes, you just need a little help and a little know-how.

Anybody can turn sweet potatoes into candied yams. But at Lucky’s, our whipped sweet potatoes are more of a side dish than a dessert. At Lucky’s, we also make sweet potato hushpuppies, sweet potato chips, and best of all, sweet potato fried pies. About five years ago, we met a woman who had been making fried sweet potato pies for decades. We asked her how she managed to get the filling into the pie without it oozing all out in the fryer. She said her secret was that she pre-baked the sweet potato pie filling completely in a casserole dish, allowed it to cool, and then rolled the filling into a half-moon-shaped hand pie and fried it. So we do it her way at our restaurant, and actually start the pie in the fryer for about a minute, just to set the crust, before finishing it off in the oven, where it cooks fully. We serve the pies with Homeland Creamery’s butter pecan ice cream, and I can’t think of any other treat that is more emblematic of a sweet southern autumn.

Recipe: Sweet Potato Fried Pies

  • 3 cups roasted sweet potatoes
  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 cup light brown sugar
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • ½ tsp nutmeg
  • 2 tbsp Myers Dark Rum
  • ½ tsp Chinese 5 Spice
  • Homemade Pie Crust (see recipe below)
  • 1 egg (for egg wash)
  • 8 tbsp sugar

Combine potatoes, cream, 3 eggs, brown sugar, spices and rum. Blend until combined and pour into a large shallow pan. Bake at 350 degrees until set. Cool. Divide dough into eight 5 ounce portions. Roll out each portion into a flat circle. Place 2 ounces of cooled potato filling in the center of each dough circle. Brush around circle with beaten egg wash. Fold circle in half and crimp edge with a fork (to seal in the filling). Let pies rest in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before cooking. Deep fry each pie at 350 degrees for three minutes or until golden brown. Place fried pies on a sheet of parchment and dust with sugar. Makes enough filling for 8 pies.

Recipe: Lucky 32 Pie Crust:

  • 6 1/8 cups all purpose flour
  • 2/3 tbsp salt
  • 3 1/3 sticks unsalted butter
  • 2/3 cup ice cold water

Freeze butter and then grate. Sift flour and salt together. Work cold butter into flour mix and add water slowly, mixing until just combined. Makes enough dough for 8 pies for the recipe above.

Recipe: Molasses Whipped Sweet Potatoes

  • 2 pounds sweet potatoes—washed, roasted and peeled
  • 1 stick butter
  • 1/3 cup sour cream
  • 2 tsp sorghum molasses
  • salt to taste

Lay out sweet potatoes on a sheet pan in a single layer and heat through in a 350 degree oven. When heated through, combine all ingredients in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment or mash with a potato masher by hand until well combined and smooth. Makes 4 portions.

Sweet Potatoes 411:

Health Benefits: Sweet potatoes are rich in antioxidants, beta-carotene, magnesium, and vitamins A, B6, and C.

Sweet potatoes vs. Yams: What’s the difference? Sweet potatoes and yams are not even vaguely from the same vegetable family. Sweet potatoes are indigenous to South America, while yams are of African origin. In this country both names are used interchangeably to refer to sweet potatoes; to try a true yam, head to an international market and seek out Boniato!

How to pick and store: Look for tubers with smooth skin, wrinkle and blemish free. They should be small to medium in size, firm to the touch, and uniform in shape. Do not refrigerate! Store in a relatively cool, dry place for up to two weeks.

Varieties: There are over 6,500 different varieties of sweet potatoes in the world. Here are a a couple of my favorites and some that you’re most likely to recognize:

  • Covington: One of my favorites, this potato’s inherent sweetness makes it popular here in the south, primarily used in sweet sides and desserts. Its thicker skin makes it easier to roast first and then peel.
  • Beauregard: Another favorite, this widely-grown, multipurpose variety is good for roasting, boiling, mashing and frying.
  • Jewell: One of the most common varieties, best for baking casseroles.
  • Carolina Ruby: A red skin variety with creamy orange flesh and thinner skin; not ideal for roasting because the flesh doesn’t detach from the skin very easily.
  • O’henry: A relative of the Beauregard, this variety has cream colored skin and flesh, and is great for baking.
  • Okinawan Purple: Originally native to Japan (hence the name), these potatoes were eventually made popular in Hawaiian cuisine, by French Polynesians. Their skin is creamy brown, but inside the flesh is a vibrant purple.
  • Stokes Purple: Indigenous to Stokes County, North Carolina, these vivid lavender-hued potatoes possess a unique earthy taste and are best used in savory dishes. They are starchy, with a fibrous skin (which has a purple tinge), and the flesh has a low moisture content, so they’re best baked lower and longer.

Did you know? You can drink ‘em:

Come visit our vegetable cart for some delicious baby Evangeline sweet potatoes from our friends at Farlow Farms.

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

 

An apple a day helps diversity stay

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 37. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

School’s back in session, the mornings have become brisk, and we’ve almost seen the last of this summer’s peaches at the market. Apple season’s in full-swing and while they might not rev your engine they way strawberries do, this misunderstood fruit is sorely underrated. Red delicious apples are the one bad apple that have spoiled it for the bunch of the good apples out there (pun intended). The mealy-textured, bland-flavored, superficially too-perfect red delicious apple has none of the characteristics of a good eating apple or a even a good cooking apple. However, it looks good on a produce stand, it travels and stores well so it has become the ubiquitous representative of the rosacea (apple) family. There are probably more cultivars of apples that are extinct than there are currently extant on this planet. Apple offspring are always different than the parent trees that contributed pollen and flower, unless branches are grafted onto rootstock. What better way to celebrate diversity than to search for apples you’ve never heard of. Keep in mind that just because it is obscure does not mean it tastes great, but therein lies the adventure. We challenge you to find an apple you’ve never heard of before. As our friends at RAFT (Renewing America’s Food Traditions) are wont to say, “you’ve got to eat it to save it.”

Favorite Apples

We prefer to use sour apples for cooking and sweet apples for eating out of hand—which seems to be the rule of thumb. Gala may be the most popular type of apple in these parts, but our favorite varies depending on the intended use. Here are some of our favorites:

    • Galas: This sweet apple makes wonderful juice, although you do need a juice extractor.
  • Arkansas Black: This beauty lives up to its name, with a dark, forbidden-like hue, reminiscent of the apple the witch gave Snow White. These apples are tart, hearty and crunchy and keep really well.
  • Mutsu (AKA Crispin): This is a great eating apple that tops many folks’ lists here in the Piedmont.
  • Macintosh: Well-balanced and good for cooking or eating fresh.
  • Stayman Winesap: Stores well and is great for pies and cider.
  • Buckingham: These large apples are ideal for pies, or mountain-style fried apples.
  • Pink Lady: These beauties are best for the kids’ lunch boxes.
  • Honeycrisp: When I crave juicy sweetness, this is one apple I might walk a mile to get my hands on. These apples are sweet and crisp like their name implies and are easily one of my favorite snacking apples. I’ve also made apple bitters, using honeycrisp apples, which we show off in the Apple core reviver #2, that we will feature at the Foggy Ridge Cider dinner on October 17
  • Gingergold: One of my favorites for cooking, because their balance is amazing and they make the best applesauce.

One of my favorite ways to experience the full flavor of an apple is through cider and hard cider (fermented cider). A longstanding tradition, cidermaking was made popular in America by English settlers from the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and hard ciders were the colonial beverage of choice. Believe it or not, “ugly,” misshapen apples with blemishes are some of the best apples for making cider. We feature three different artisanal hard ciders by the glass every day, two from Foggy Ridge in Dugspur, Virginia and one from McRitchie right here in Elkin, North Carolina. If you want a real treat, find some boiled cider (http://www.woodscidermill.com/), and incorporate it into your cold weather morning ritual.

Recipe: New Jersey Cocktail

  • 1.25 fl oz Apple Brandy
  • 1 sugar cube
  • 3 dashes Angostura bitters
  • 4 fl oz hard cider (we like Foggy Ridge and McRitchie)

Place sugar cube in a champagne flute (or cocktail glass of choice). Add 3 dashes of bitters and apple brandy, and fill with cider. Makes 1 cocktail

Recipe: Warm Apple Spiced Cake

  • 3 cups tart apples (Granny Smith, if you can’t find any at the market)
  • 3 cups flour
  • 1 ½ tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • ½ tsp salt
  • ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1 stick butter, unsalted
  • ½ cup vegetable oil
  • 2 cups granulated sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 9 x 13 pan with cooking spray and set aside. Peel, core and dice apples into 1-inch pieces; set aside. In a large mixing bowl, add flour, baking soda, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg. Whisk together. Place butter, oil and sugar in bowl of an electric mixer. Using paddle attachment, mix on low speed until just blended. Turn speed to high and continue mixing until thoroughly combined. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add vanilla and beat on high speed, 3-4 minutes, until light and fluffy. Turn mixer back to medium speed and gradually add dry ingredients. Turn off mixer when ingredients are just blended; avoid over-mixing. Fold in apples. Fold batter into prepared pan. Bake for 40-50 minutes, until golden brown and toothpick comes out clean. Makes 12 servings

Fun Facts About Apples:

  • Apples date back to 6500 BC.
  • Apples release ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening of other fruit, so give them their own bowl and keep them away from your other produce.
  • While there have been between 15,000 and 16,000 different apple varieties in North America, only about 3,000 of those varieties are actually accessible today.
  • The largest apple ever picked weighed 3 pounds.
  • North Carolina is the seventh largest apple producing state.
  • It takes about 36 apples to make one gallon of cider.
  • After oranges, apples are the most valuable fruit in the U.S.
  • Apples are high in fiber and vitamin C and they help regulate blood sugar, lower cholesterol, and promote heart health.

More Apple Resources:

Join us at our Greensboro restaurant on October 17th, for our Hard Cider Dinner with Foggy Ridge.

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

“Putting up” with Lucky 32: Chowchow, Pickles and Preserves

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 36. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

The end of summer often fills us with wonder. We anticipate the arrival of cooler nights and question the uncertainty of the remaining gardening months – will winter be fast and furious or will autumn linger enough to provide a second crop of tender leafy edibles? Traditionally the subsistence farmers in this area experienced wonder of their own, not knowing whether they’ve grown and preserved enough food to get them through the winter. Folk who are connected to the land still feel that in the kitchen while planning out menus and looking forward to the coming crops. We’re really anxious to put our summer crops behind us because this year they’ve really underperformed, due mainly to lack of sunshine. That being said, the transition from summer to fall should be celebrated, and traditionally the best way to celebrate that is through canning.

In our humble opinion, there isn’t anything more emblematic of canning than chowchow. This southern condiment is kind of a mish-mash of end of summer garden vegetables with some spices, vinegar and sugar. The vegetables are chopped up finely, cooked down, preserved, and consumed throughout the whole year. In the piedmont, dried beans were consumed often during the cold months, and people liked to garnish their beans with chowchow. There’s something very pioneer about the aroma of chowchow simmering on the stove. It’s not much to look at but it’s quintessentially southern and quite tasty.

As with many traditional dishes, there’s no definitive recipe for chowchow, only a formula. You need something with texture (like cauliflower, cabbage or green tomatoes), some sweet (sugar), and sour (usually cider vinegar), and the success of the recipe is all about how those ingredients play together. Chowchow is an expression of location and identity. At the restaurant we make chow chow year round and we prefer to use green tomatoes for ours. We love our chowchow so much that we’ve incorporated it into quite a few dishes, such as our tartar sauce, 32,000 Island dressing, remoulade, and egg salad.

Recipe: Lucky 32 Chowchow

  • 1 ½ cups green tomatoes, seeded and rough chopped
  • ½ cup green bell pepper, rough chopped
  • ¼ cup red bell pepper, rough chopped
  • ½ cup yellow onion, rough chopped
  • ¾ tsp mustard seed
  • ½ tsp celery seed
  • ½ tsp chopped garlic
  • ½ tsp turmeric
  • 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp crushed red pepper

In a food processor, pulse tomatoes until finely chopped but not pureed. Pulse peppers and onion until finely chopped. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer on medium heat for 20-30 minutes. Cool and store in a jar or container with a lid. Makes 2 ½ cups

Recipe: Lucky 32 Egg Salad

  • 2 cups chopped hard boiled eggs
  • ½ cup green tomato chowchow
  • ¼ tsp sea salt
  • ½ cup mayonnaise

 Squeeze liquid from the chowchow until it is dry. Add eggs to a mixing bowl, season with salt. Make sure that most of the liquid is out of the chowchow. Add chowchow and mayonnaise to eggs; fold until well combined. Allow to rest in refrigerator until chilled before serving. Makes 2 ½ cups

Some things you can do with chowchow:

  • Replace relish in recipes
  • Garnish your beans
  • Put on a ham biscuit (thank Shannon Smith for this idea)
  • Add it to a pasta salad

photo-24 For more on “putting up,” check out:

For more recipes, visit https://www.lucky32.com/recipes.htm

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

 

In praise of the true southern watermelon

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 35. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

School may be back in session but summer ain’t over ’til the watermelon’s gone. Many of us remember being a kid, eating watermelon standing in the backyard, with a little salt, juice running down our chin and our hands all sticky, spitting the seeds out in the grass. It’s a nostalgic food memory and it’s still a wonderul way to eat watermelon; simply, as it’s meant to be eaten.  Farmers would haul watermelons from their patches in the country to the city, selling them out of the back of their trucks, under overpasses. Though we see less of that nowadays, that experience often was our first brush with the local food movement, before it was a movement, per se.

Mark Twain once said, “The true Southern watermelon is a boon apart, and not to be mentioned with commoner things. It is chief of this world’s luxuries, king by grace of God over all the fruits of the earth. When one has tasted it, he knows what the angels eat.” Watermelon really is one of the iconic fruits of the south. Pickled watermelon rind  is a piece of southern culture that many people aren’t quite sure how to eat at first. We tried making relishes and chutney out of it, but it seemed monotonous and bland. Then we drew on our experience of creating balanced dishes to pair with wine, and thought, “ what does this need?” We definitely thought that fat would help, so we put some on pimento cheese and it was a revelation. Now we’re convinced that watermelon pickles were made for pimento cheese. Saltine crackers with pimento cheese and watermelon pickles is the ultimate Southern hors d’oeuvres. As an extension of this, we created the Backroads Bibb Salad, with bibb lettuce, pimento cheese, pickled watermelon rind, candied pecans and a warm bacon vinaigrette. Quite a few folks looked sideways at the dish when  it debuted on the menu, but since then more people have come around to it, and it has become a favorite. You can find it at both Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen restaurants right now!

Pickled Watermelon Rinds

  • 8 pounds watermelon
  • 2 tbsp salt
  • 4 cups water
  • 1 cup lemon juice
  • 1 cup water
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 2 tbsp pureéd fresh ginger
  • yellow peel from one lemon
  • 2 tbsp allspice
  • 2 tbsp whole cloves

Remove rind from watermelon and reserve red part to enjoy at your leisure (or for the Backroads Bibb Salad). Using a vegetable peeler, remove the green skin from the rind and discard the skin. Cut rind into ½ inch pieces. This should yield about 8 cups. In a large bowl, combine 2 tablespoons salt and 4 cups of water and allow rind to soak in the brine for one hour, then drain. In a large pot, combine lemon juice, 1 cup of water, sugar, ginger puree, lemon peel and spices. Add rind, cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered over medium-low, for 40 minutes or until rind is translucent. With a slotted spoon, transfer rind to a plastic container. Strain liquid and pour over rind. Makes 4 cups.

Backroads Bibb Salad with Pickled Watermelon Rinds

  • ½ head Bibb lettuce
  • 1/3 cup Pimento Cheese
  • 2 ounces Bacon Vinaigrette
  • 1/3 cup Pickled Watermelon Rinds
  • ¼ cup Spiced Pecans

Bacon Vinaigrette

  • ¾ pound sliced bacon
  • ½ cup diced yellow onions
  • 5 ounces light brown sugar
  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 2 tsp Dijon mustard
  • ½ tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tsp Texas Pete sauce
  • 3 cups canola oil

Render bacon. Remove from pan and drain. Sauté onions in bacon fat, over medium heat. When onions are golden, add sugar and cook until sugar is dissolved. Turn off heat and stir in Dijon, vinegar, salt, Worcestershire, and Texas Pete. Combine well, scraping bottom of pan. Transfer mixture to a plastic container (if using an immersion blender), or a food processor, and slowly add oil while immersion blender or food processor is running. When all oil is incorporated, stir in crumbled bacon. Makes 1 quart.

Recipe: Pimento Cheese

  • 1 pound extra sharp white cheddar cheese
  • ½ pound diced roasted red peppers
  • 2/3 cup mayonnaise
  • 2 tsp lemon juice

Grate cheese and add to a large mixing bowl. Drain excess liquid from diced roasted red peppers and add to cheese. Toss to combine. In a separate mixing bowl combine mayonnaise and lemon juice and whisk until smooth. Pour mayonnaise mixture over cheese and using a kitchen spoon, mix until well blended. Makes about 3 cups.

Recipe: Spiced Pecans

  • 1 pound pecan pieces
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 tsp cayenne pepper
  • 2 tsp allspice
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 tsp salt

Line a sheet pan with parchment and spray with cooking spray. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer on medium-low heat for 30 minutes. Drain well. Fry pecans in deep fat (we use canola oil) for 60 seconds. Remove and allow to drain and cool. Turn pecans out on the prepared sheet pan, spreading into a single layer. Allow to cool. Makes 1 pound.

To assemble the salad: Arrange half head of Bibb lettuce in the center of a large plate. Drizzle with bacon vinaigrette. Crumble Pimento Cheese on top, and sprinkle with pickles and pecans. Makes 1 serving.

Watermelon Galore

By endeavoring to create a recipe like watermelon pickles, you’re left with a lot of watermelon, so we experimented with a few things like watermelon syrup and watermelon margaritas but they just didn’t pack any punch. Inspired by the tradition of the classic Italian pairing of melon and prosciutto, we devised a southern interpretation of the dish with our Whimsical Watermelon appetizer—a “salad” with diced watermelon, a chiffonade of Benton’s country ham, sherry vinaigrette, homemade ricotta and mint.

 

 

Recipe: Whimsical Watermelon 

  • 2 cups diced seedless watermelon
  • 1 tsp balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tsp fresh mint chiffonade
  • 1 oz country ham chiffonade
  • 1 oz ricotta, drained (or goat cheese)

Cut watermelon pulp into 1-inch cubes. To a bowl, add watermelon, vinegar, oil, and 1 teaspoon of mint. Mix well. Transfer to a chilled soup bowl. Top with ham, cheese, and remaining mint. Makes 1 serving.

How to buy a watermelon

Generally people will tell you that you compromise flavor when you get into these hybrids that are developed to be seedless; that the old timey watermelons with the big black seeds in them are going to have more flavor. While that’s often the case, people don’t want to go out to eat and have to spit out seeds at the dinner table, so at the restaurant, we have found the juiciest, tastiest seedless melons.

We’ve been buying watermelons for about 20 years and we’re still not always certain of how to pick a good one, but here are a few useful tips that we  go by:

  • Color: Ripe watermelons are dark green and you should want to look for a creamy, yellow belly as opposed to a white belly (this is the part of the watermelon that was sitting on the ground). The more yellow that spot is, the more mature the melon is and the sweeter it is likely to be.

  • Shape: Make sure it’s evenly shaped—bruises, bumps and abnormalities tend to indicate the watermelon hasn’t gotten enough sunlight or water.

  • Pick it up. The heaviest one for its size—they should feel heavier than they look.

  • Check the end. The end where the vine came off should be smooth, which means the vine detached naturally. If the end is jagged, it was probably picked prematurely.

Watermelon Varieties

There are around two to three hundred varieties of watermelon that exist in the U.S. and Mexico. Several have playful names, like “Cream of Saskatchewan” and “Little Baby Flower.” Here are some of our favorites:

  • Moon and Stars: An heirloom variety. Dark green on the outside, with distinctive golden constellation-like dots.

  • Jubilee: This extremely sweet watermelon has a dark and light green striped rind and is usually oblong in shape.

  • Sugar Baby: Also referred to as an “icebox watermelon,” this variety is dark green on the outside, typically with little or  barely noticeable stripes or markings. True to its name, this melon is remarkably sweet.

  • Crimson Sweet: Sugary, with a vivid red hue and a dark and light green striped rind.

Other interesting ways to use watermelon

For more recipes, visit https://www.lucky32.com/recipes.htm

What’s your favorite way to enjoy watermelon?

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

Lend me your ears (of corn)!

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 34. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

The humble ear of sweet corn may be the most misunderstood vegetable in America. We hear a lot of talk about GMO (genetically modified organism) corn and food subsidies, which is more about field corn (the starchy, inedible cousin of sweet corn).  Though sweet corn gets tarred with the same brush, remember not all corn is created equal. Sweet corn is what we nibble on all summer long; field corn is used to make high-fructose corn syrup, livestock feed, ethanol and other processed materials. About 90 percent of field corn is genetically modified, but at least 96 percent of sweet corn is not (according to Plate Magazine), which means we can rest easy my friends.

Corn is such a versatile vegetable. It can be steamed, grilled, roasted, smoked and fried, or eaten on the cob or off. It can be dried, made into hominy, ice cream, beer, and even moonshine. I love the corn cookie recipe in Momofuku Milk Bar Cookbook, by Christina Tosi. We make a whole lot of corn relish (recipe below), because it is used to garnish our black bean cakes.

One of our favorite ways to enjoy corn is to make esquites (as we did at one of our Fullsteam Brewing beer schools). Esquites is a Mexican street food, and we prepare it in a similar way to Tex-Mex nachos. It’s an awesome dish for a party and it’s full of flavor.

Esquites 

  • 8-12 corn tortillas
  • ¼ cup of corn relish (recipe below)
  • ¼ cup of homemade ricotta
  • ¼ cup chopped green onions
  • 2 tbsp creole mayonaise (recipe below)
  • 2 tbsp cayenne pepper hot sauce (we like Valentina)

Recipe: Creole Mayonnaise

  • 2 ¾ cup of mayonnaise
  • 1 tbsp creole seasoning
  • 1 tbsp Texas Pete hot sauce
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice

Recipe: Corn Relish

  • 2/3 pound corn kernels (canned or fresh cooked)
  • ¼ cup diced jalapeno peppers
  • ½ pound diced tomatoes
  • ¼ cup diced red onions
  • ½ tsp salt
  • ½ tsp minced garlic
  • 2 tbsp canola oil
  • 2 tbsp lime juice
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
  • ½ tsp ground cumin

Drain the corn well and add all of the ingredients to a large mixing bowl. Using a spoon, combine well. Makes 1 quart.

 To Assemble the Esquites:

  • Add all of the ingredients to a large mixing bowl and whisk until the color is even and the ingredients are evenly distributed. Makes 2 ¾ cups.
  • Fry fresh corn tortillas until crispy or bake some already fried tortillas at 350 for just under five minutes. Break the tortillas into pieces (like chips) and place them on a large serving platter. Top them with corn relish, green onions, ricotta, creole mayonnaise, and cayenne pepper hot sauce.

Here are some other inventive uses for corn:

  • Make a stock. Before you toss those corn cobs in the trash, consider making a stock with them. Cut corn from cobs and use in relish recipe. Place all cobs in a saucepan or stockpot, depending on how many you have. Cover with water and bring to a simmer. Simmer for one hour. Strain liquid and use in the next recipe.
  • Drink it. We’ve been experimenting with a corn, coconut and bourbon cocktail: try this . . . 2 oz corn stock, 1 tbsp Coco Lopez, 4 leaves basil, 1.25 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon – shake well with ice and double strain over ice in a rocks glass. Add three dashes of Fee Brothers Black Walnut bitters.
  • Make succotash. A fantastic way to celebrate summer edging into autumn is by making boiled peanut succotash, with corn, squash and peanuts, which overlap down east for just a bit.
  • Add it to your aioli. Vivian Howard, of Kinston’s Chef and the Farmer restaurant uses smoked corn aioli for her famous tomato sandwich. It made the cover of Garden and Gun Magazine, when John T. Edge included it in his list of “good eats” in 2012.
  • Smoke it. Smoke whole ears to serve as a side dish, garnished with a miso aioli (miso and Duke’s mayo, mixed in a food processor) as we recently offered at the Mystery Brewing beer school.
  • Eat the silk. Those silky strands can actually be fried and eaten, or dried and then crumbled to use as a breading. (I read this in Plate Magazine, but haven’t tried it yet).
  • Think sweet. Corn can be used in sweet dishes as well. It can be steeped in cream and churned into sweet corn ice cream or crème bruleé.

Recipe: Ice Box Corn Pudding

Right now on our menu at both Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen restaurants we offer Ice Box Corn Pudding as a side. It’s sort of like making mac and cheese, but with corn instead of pasta, and rather than serving it hot, we serve it cold. It was a popular addition to our menu last year, so we decided to bring it back this summer. Here’s the recipe:

  • 3 tbsp unsalted butter
  • ¼ cup all purpose flour
  • 2 tbsp chopped garlic
  • ¼ cup granulated sugar
  • 1 ½ cups whole milk
  • ¼ tsp smoked paprika
  • ¼ tsp sea salt
  • 2 oz cream cheese
  • 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar
  • ¼ cup shredded pepper jack
  • 1 ½ pound corn kernels (off the cob)
  • 2 small eggs, beaten

Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat; stir in flour. Cook until a blonde roux is achieved and then stir in the garlic and sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, whisk in the milk. Simmer until the mixture is thickened (about 5 minutes). Add the spices and cream cheese; stir until melted. Remove from heat and add cheddar and pepper jack. When melted, stir in corn. Allow mixture to come to room temperature and then fold in the beaten eggs. Using a 3 ounce scoop, scoop the mixture into silicone muffin molds or prepared muffin pans. Bake at 350 for 40 minutes; sides should be bubbly and slightly browned. Remove and cool completely before serving. Makes 10 servings.

Some fun facts about corn:

  • Each individual kernel is connected to one piece of silk. Every strand of silk needs to be pollinated for all of the kernels to grow to maturity.
  • There are about 800 kernels in an ear of corn.
  • Out of all the corn produced in the world, Americans consume one third of the sweet crop.
  • One bushel of corn equals 56 pounds.

To learn more about corn, check out some of our favorite sources:

For more recipes, visit https://www.lucky32.com/recipes.htm

What’s your favorite way to enjoy corn?

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

 

We wouldn’t be a “southern kitchen” if we didn’t fry okra

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 33. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

Okra season is upon us, and we’re pretty excited. Due to the abundance of rain we’ve had this month, okra has been rather scarce. It’s been a shaky start for local crops, because these African plants, which come from the Mallow family thrive in hot, dry climates. Things may be looking up though because Farlow Farm and Meadows Family Farms both report positive news. When the plants hit their stride, the pods grow so rapidly in the heat of the summer that the plants often have to be harvested twice a day.

Recipe: Okra Popcorn

When we’re unable to get fresh okra, we won’t fry it. We will buy it frozen, to use in stews or gumbo, but those are heartier, wintry dishes anyway. Although it’s available all year in some form, fresh okra is great in the summer because it travels the shortest distance to your plate. During the peak of summer, if the good stuff’s around, we prefer not to adulterate it with a cacophony of too many flavors. we want the flavors of the okra to be at the forefront of the dish, and fried okra is the best way to do that. If you lightly batter and fry okra with just a little salt, buttermilk, cornmeal and a hint of spice, it stands out with little manipulation and you can really taste it. You can eat it like popcorn, hence the “okra popcorn” on our menu.

Tips for Frying Okra

  • Barely trim the tops and bottom of the vegetable, cut into half-inch rounds, toss it in some buttermilk, dredge in your breader (our recipe is below), shake in a sifter to remove the excess flour and then fry.
  • Fry it in piping hot shallow oil.
  • Make sure that if the okra crushes under the weight of the knife, don’t cut it up and fry it. That’s a sign that it’s too “woody,” or fibrous, making it unpalatable.
  • Typically, if okra is longer than your fingers, it’s not ideal for cooking. The smaller it is, the more tender it will be and no amount of cooking can tenderize okra that’s too large.
  • Okra is best eaten right when you buy it but should be stored in a plastic bag in your refrigerator’s crisper drawer.

Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen’s Fried Okra 

Okra Breader  *this recipe is to be used with 2 oz. of buttermilk for every ½ pound of okra

  • ½ cup corn meal
  • ½ cup corn flour
  • 1 tbsp Creole Seasoning

Creole Seasoning

  • 2 ½ tbsp paprika
  • 2 tbsp salt
  • 2 tbsp garlic powder
  • 3 tsp black pepper
  • 3 tsp onion powder
  • 3 tsp cayenne powder
  • 3 tsp oregano leaves
  • 3 tsp thyme leaves

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and whisk until well-blended. Transfer the breader to a shallow dish for dredging.

More Okra Tips:

Beyond frying okra, we love to take the pinky-sized baby okra of the bunch and serve it blackened with creole seasoning or skewered and grilled with a drizzle of white vinegar and some salt and pepper, as sort of an impromptu pickled okra. Pickled okra is something I can’t get enough of. When prepared just like you would dill pickles, it lasts for quite some time and is a wonderful appetizer or accompaniment to a sandwich or a plate of cheese. Along with frying okra in hot oil, the vinegar used in the chemical process of pickling is also a great way to help counteract some of the inherent sliminess found in the vegetable’s texture. In addition, cooking okra with tomatoes achieves the same effect, because of the high acidity levels in tomatoes.

Some Fun Facts About Okra:

  • The word okra originates from West Africa
  • One nickname for okra is “lady’s fingers,” due to the long, slender nature of the vegetable’s pods
  • It’s from the same family as hollyhocks, cotton and hibiscus
  • It is high in fiber, folate and vitamin C and is also a good source of calcium, potassium and antioxidants
  • Okra plants have beautiful white or yellow flowers which open in the morning

For more recipes, visit https://www.lucky32.com/recipes.htm

How do you like to eat your okra?

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

 

Oh no! Here comes the squash!

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 32. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

Squash comes from the Cucurbita family, which is rather easy to grow in our climate—from melons, to cucumber, to squashes. They all grow on vines that can envelope your entire garden and produce more fruit than you know what to do with.

  • Flying Saucer, Sunburst, White Pattypan: These three are all pattypans, which have larger seeds and a central cavity, like winter squash—great for stuffing or cutting into wedges and roasting. Smaller is better.
  • Zephyr: Smaller specimens are great for chopping, roasting or sautéing. Larger squash have larger seeds, so longer cooking, removing the seeds, or baking into bread is recommended.
  • Safari Zucchini: Similar to Zephyr.
  • Magda: Better for stewing.

Squash is also one of the three sisters of traditional Native American lore, because the tomato plants would act as trellises for the bean vines and then the squash would grow along the ground, in the shade of the tomato plants.

We’re excited about our burgeoning relationship with Farlow Farm, a small family farm in Archdale, NC, where Russell and Jennifer have converted a former dairy farm into a vegetable farm. We’ve been buying their basil, tomatoes and of course, squash. You can find their produce at the Greensboro Curb Farmers’ Market, as a temporary vendor, at New Garden Nursery’s Thursday Farmers’ Market, and of course, at their farm. (Check out a recent feature on Farlow Farm on FOX8.)

We can’t really think of anything that’s more emblematic of summer than ratatouille—summer squash, tomatoes and eggplant all cooked together—whether you cook it very lightly, or stew it on the stove, in the Provencal manner. It tastes of the earth and that’s what summer squash is. It’s mostly water, and it’s a wonderful vehicle for you to express yourself in the kitchen. You can chop it up into chunks and sauté it quickly, add a little creole sauce and spill it over some rice. You can slice it and grill it with a little salt and pepper and some fruit vinegar, or smother it in cheese or roast it in the oven with some sesame seeds like we do at the restaurant. The opportunities are endless and it’s an easy way as a gardener (or farmers’ market forager) to put food on your table.

We’ve left out the eggplant and rechristened our ratatouille, “Summer Squash Creole.” Try the recipe below or enjoy it at Lucky’s until Aug 20.

Recipe: Summer Squash Creole 

  • 1 fl oz canola oil
  • 1 cup zucchini (large dice)
  • 1 cup yellow squash (large dice)
  • ¾ cup Creole Sauce
  • ¾ cup long grain white rice
  • ¼ cup ricotta cheese
  • 2 tbsp chopped green onions

Heat oil in saute pan; saute zucchini and yellow squash. When heated through, add sauce. Bring to a boil and then pour over white rice. Garnish with crumbled ricotta and chopped green onions. Makes 1 serving

Recipe: Creole Sauce

  • 1/8 pound celery, diced ¼ inch
  • 1/8 pound onions, diced ¼ inch
  • 1/8 pound green pepper, diced ¼ inch
  • 1 tbsp canola oil
  • 2 tsp minced garlic
  • 1 ½ cup canned crushed tomatoes
  • 1 cup canned, chopped in puree tomatoes
  • ¾ cup V-8 juice
  • 1 tbsp Creole Spice Blend
  • salt to taste

Add the oil to a large sauce pot. Heat and add onions, peppers, celery, garlic and Creole Spice Blend. Saute for 5-7 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Simmer over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Makes 1 quart

Recipe: Creole Spice Blend

  • 2 ½ tbsp paprika
  • 2 tbsp salt
  • 2 tbsp garlic powder
  • 3 tsp black pepper
  • 3 tsp onion powder
  • 3 tsp cayenne powder
  • 3 tsp oregano leaves
  • 3 tsp thyme leaves

Add all of the ingredients to a large bowl and combine with a whisk until spices are evenly distributed. Store in an air tight container with a lid. Makes ¾ cup

For more recipes, visit: https://www.lucky32.com/recipes.htm

What is your favorite way to enjoy summer squash?

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

 

Time for Tomatoes—How are we so patient?

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series # 31. Follow us all year long as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

As soon as our days turn warm, folks start aching for tomatoes. Everything’s blooming, everything’s green, but the tomatoes that you crave, that you haven’t had since last summer, are just getting planted; you’ll have to wait awhile for those succulent beauties. We’ve been passing the time as we wait for field tomatoes by buying the most transcendent greenhouse tomatoes from Screech and from Rudd Farm, a new acquaintance of ours, who’ve been slinging scrumptious local produce since last century (1999).

Nothing compares to a sun-soaked, vine-ripened tomato, regardless of variety. The true secret to why your own homegrown tomatoes or your memories of your grandmother’s heirloom specimens are so much better than anything you can buy is because those tomatoes are (were) picked at the peak of ripeness, as opposed to supermarket tomatoes which are picked under ripe (or even green) and ripened either during or after transport. The beauty of the current vogue of folks shopping at farmers’ markets is that consumers are being reconnected to vine-ripened produce in general and more specifically, tomatoes picked at the peak of ripeness.

The field tomatoes that we get from Rudd Farm, heirloom or not, are as much of an improvement over those greenhouse tomatoes as the greenhouse tomatoes were over the warehouse-ripened tomatoes they replaced. And now, as those field-tomatoes are finally upon us, we’re excited to be working with the fourth and fifth generations of the Rudd family to farm the land. Kenneth and Joan don’t do it alone, they enlist the help of their two grown sons, friends and neighbors, to grow a bounty of produce—a southern cornucopia of strawberries, eggplant, zucchini and squash and of course, tomatoes. Best of all, their farm is in Guilford County and you can’t bring the farm much closer to your fork than that, unless you grow your own.

You can find Rudd Farm tomatoes and other summer goodies on our Farmer’s Cart at the Greensboro restaurant, at their farm, and at the Greensboro Farmers Curb Market. How do you like your tomatoes?

Tips:

  • Always wash your tomatoes before you eat them.
  • Never put a tomato in the refrigerator—tomatoes stored below 55 degrees lose flavor and texture.
  • A field-ripened tomato needs little accompaniment. You want to really taste the tomato, so less is more. Usually a light sprinkling of salt is all you need to amplify that quintessential summer taste.
  • Avoid cooking with field-ripened, Beefsteak tomatoes, because that wonderful flavor will get lost once subjected to heat. Plum tomatoes are better for cooking, they have more flesh and less moisture than their round siblings—just make sure you peel them first.
  • If your tomatoes are too ripe, you can always save them by:
    • Freezing them whole on wax paper (once they are frozen, transfer to a resealable bag or container until you need them) and later roasting them in the oven to make a tomato sauce.
    • Pureeing them to make a tomato juice (great for using in your favorite bloody mary recipe)
    • Canning them

Check out these great Lucky 32 recipes for some creative ways to cook your tomatoes:

Recipe: Grilled Vegetable Stack with Charred Tomato Vinaigrette

  • 1-2 pounds of eggplant, sliced into ¼” thick planks
  • 1-2 pounds of yellow squash, sliced into ¼” thick planks
  • 1-2 pounds of zucchini, sliced into ¼” thick planks
  • 1 cup canola oil
  • salt and pepper to taste

Brush sliced vegetables with oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place on a hot grill and cook until tender, creating nice grill marks on each side. Place on a plate and drizzle charred tomato vinaigrette over.

Yield about 4 servings

Recipe: Charred Tomato Vinaigrette 

  • 3 ½ pounds of local tomatoes
  • ¼ cup canola oil
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • ½ tsp black pepper
  • 1 oz. fresh basil, de-stemmed
  • ¼ cup red wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1/8 cup diced red onions
  • 1 ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

In a bowl, season canola oil with salt and pepper.Cut tomatoes in half (along the equator) and squeeze out the seeds.

Remove core from the tomatoes. Discard seeds and core.

Toss tomatoes in season canola oil then grill for two minutes on each side until charred.

Combine remaining ingredients (except olive oil) and charred tomatoes in a blender or processor and puree. While blender is running, slowly drizzle in olive oil.

Strain mixture through a medium hole strainer and discard solids.

Yield 2 ½ cups

Recipe: Tomato Aspic

  • 2 cups tomato puree (see recipe below)
  • 1 ½ tbsp apple cider vinegar
  • ½ tbsp green onions, thinly sliced
  • ½ tbsp salt (or to taste)
  • 1 pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1 pinch celery seed
  • ½ tbsp unflavored gelatin
  • ¼ cup water

In a bowl, combine tomato puree, vinegar, onions, salt and cayenne.

Soften gelatin and celery seed in water for about 10 minutes, then place over boiling water until the gelatin melts.

Add gelatin mix to tomato mix. Pour into individual molds and chill until set.

Yields 6 servings

Recipe: Local Tomato Puree

  • 1 ½ pounds fresh tomato

Place tomatoes on a sheet tray and roast in a moderate oven until skins are brown. Place in food processor and puree.

Yields about 2 cups

For more recipes, go to: https://www.lucky32.com/recipes.htm

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index: http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

Three recipes, one sustainable ingredient: Asparagus

LOCAVORE’S DELIGHT: The Series #30. Follow us as we explore the bounty of our region’s farms.

We never knew, or even thought of, asparagus as a product of a farm. We didn’t give it much thought at all. It was a product of a can. Overcooked. Inedible. Eaten cold.

One ingredient, three recipes: Serve fresh asparagus from the Farmer’s Market for dinner on Wednesday and Saturday and make soup from the discarded stems on Sunday. Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen recipes below.

Now, today, farming asparagus has become the emblem of sustainability to us. It takes three years to raise a crop that will feed you for 20. Guilford College’s Rock Star farmer Korey Erb uses asparagus as the logo for his farm. It’s not an easy thing to grow. You need to be patient. You harvest with a light hand. Take less now to have more later. And because it’s a perennial, the land you set aside for asparagus works just like a fruit orchard. You dedicate a plot. It’s a commitment between a farmer and his crop.

Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen uses asparagus from Meadows Family Farm.

Purple asparagus in the garden at Foggy Ridge Farms. Purple asparagus turns green when you cook it so try to eat it raw.

A field of green

The nature of the plant is that asparagus is a bush. What you’re eating is actually the new shoot of the bush.

Among the growing procedures: Per the “Farmer’s Almanac”

  • Asparagus is planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. The plant is grown from “crowns” (1-year-old plants).
  • Asparagus does not like to have its feet “wet,” so be sure your bed has good drainage. For that reason, raised beds can be a good place to plant asparagus.
  • Do not harvest the spears in the first year, but cut down dead foliage in late fall and side-dress with compost.
  • During the second year, keep the bed thickly mulched, side-dress in spring and early fall, and cut down dead foliage in late fall.
  • Cut spears that are about 6 inches in length at an angle.

In the third year, the bush produces more sprouts. And the farmer, the hobbyist, has to make a decision about when to stop harvesting at a certain point to have a bigger crop next year.

Asparagus is featured on the Spring in Our Step menu May 15 to July 2: Green Goddess Plate roasted radishes, grilled asparagus, boiled potatoes, Screech’s tomatoes and green goddess dressing

Raw asparagus for dinner Monday

  • Store asparagus raw. You don’t want to store cooked asparagus, because the cooking process breaks down the cellular structure and it lead to spoilage faster.
  • To make a raw asparagus salad, chop it up and create your own dressing. Use three parts oil (a neutral oil, such as Canola oil) to one part vinegar.
  • Put all the ingredients in a mason jar, shake it up well, and shake it up, sprinkle it over, add salt and pepper.

Blanched asparagus on Wednesday

  • Wash and clean the asparagus.
  • Trim off the woody stems. If you bend asparagus, it’s going to naturally bend at the point where it’s most flexible. There’s a rigid part and there’s a flexible part. The woody part snaps off and is the much smaller part of the asparagus.
  • Set aside all your woody stems to make asparagus soup at the end of the week (recipe below). It will keep, uncovered, about a week in the fridge.
  • Bring salted water to a boil.
  • Place trimmed, washed asparagus into water.
  • Prepare ice bath.
  • After the asparagus is in the pot for sixty seconds, remove it from the boiling water and place asparagus into the cold water.
  • Let it soak in the ice bath for five minutes.
  • Remove and towel dry.
  • Either place it in a hot dry skillet, then drizzle with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper; when it’s heated through it’s done. Or, place on an oiled grill and sprinkle with salt and pepper until it begins to wilt.

Chef’s note: thin asparagus doesn’t need to be blanched. Only standard and jumbo need to be blanched.

Asparagus soup on Sunday

We save all of woody stems and make asparagus soup. We simmer it down in some cream and put in it a little Parmesan cheese. Purée to get the flavor out. Strain the soup to remove the fiber (cellulose) and get all the flavor. There really is no recipe for it. So we encourage people to experiment on their own. Feel free to add more asparagus to ramp up the flavor and make it more subtle.

Cream of Asparagus Soup

  • 1 pound asparagus
  • ¾ cup heavy cream
  • 1 fl oz canola oil
  • ½ cups chopped yellow onion
  • 1 quart vegetable stock
  • ¼ pound diced, peeled potatoes
  • 1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp ground white pepper
  • 1 tsp dried thyme leaves (or 1TBSP fresh)
  • ¼ pound Parmesan Reggiano cheese rind only
  • 1 tsp lemon juice

Wash asparagus and cut the woody part of the stalk off. Blanch the tops, shock in ice water, drain and set aside for garnish. Blanch the stalks for 5 minutes. Add hot asparagus stalks to a blender with first portion of heavy cream and puree, then strain reserving solids and liquids separately. In a pan, sauté onions in oil until translucent.

In a large pot, add vegetable stock. Add all ingredients except pureed asparagus liquid and solids, stirring to incorporate. Add solids from asparagus puree and continue to simmer until potatoes are soft. Remove the Parmesan rind and discard. Puree the soup with an immersion blender.  Stir in asparagus liquid puree and then strain all through a large hole strainer.Garnish soup with cut asparagus tips.

Makes 1 quart

For more about our seasonal recipes, see our current menu at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen and our Blog Recipe Index:http://lucky32southernkitchen.com/recipes/

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